Day 1: Nassau to Highbourne Cay
Nautical Miles: 35
Travel Time: 5 hours
Your Exumas adventure begins in Nassau, where morning check-in at one of the marinas provides access to excellent provisioning and final preparations before heading into more remote territory. The capital city buzzes with energy, cruise ships dominating the harbor and downtown streets filled with tourists and locals conducting business. After stowing provisions and completing customs formalities, depart Nassau and set course southeast toward the northern Exumas. The passage takes you across the shallow yellow banks north of New Providence before threading through the northern cays into deeper water. Navigation requires attention to charts and careful visual piloting, with the crystal-clear water allowing you to see coral heads and sand patches far below your keel.
Approach Highbourne Cay in the late afternoon and navigate into the protected marina basin on the western side. This private island resort offers moorings, fuel, water, and basic provisions, serving as the gateway to the Exumas for many cruisers departing Nassau. The marina provides a gentle transition from city facilities to island life, with a restaurant, small store, and beautiful beaches just steps from your berth. Spend your first evening exploring the island's walking trails, swimming off the stunning beaches where sting rays often glide through the shallows, or enjoying dinner at the marina restaurant while meeting other cruisers heading south. The water clarity here already exceeds anything near Nassau, giving you a preview of the extraordinary visibility that defines the Exumas. As darkness falls, enjoy the peaceful atmosphere and brilliant stars overhead, knowing tomorrow brings your entry into the legendary Exuma Cays Land and Sea Park.
Route Highlights - Departing bustling Nassau and navigating southeast through the northern cays toward the Exuma chain.
- Arriving at Highbourne Cay marina and experiencing your first taste of pristine Exumas water clarity.
- Swimming with sting rays off beautiful beaches and meeting fellow cruisers at the marina facilities.
Day 2: Highbourne Cay to Norman's Cay
Nautical Miles: 15
Travel Time: 2.5 hours
Depart Highbourne Cay and continue southeast toward Norman's Cay, an island with fascinating and somewhat notorious history. The passage follows the protected waters inside the Exuma chain, with the deep blue of Exuma Sound visible to the east and the shallow turquoise banks stretching west. Navigation remains straightforward in good light, with the clear water allowing you to easily identify and avoid the scattered coral heads. As you approach Norman's Cay, you can spot the partially submerged airplane wreck that has become one of the most photographed sites in the Bahamas, a remnant of the island's wild years as a drug smuggling hub in the 1980s.
Navigate into the anchorage area near the famous plane wreck and set your anchor in sand bottom with good holding and protection from prevailing winds. Once secured, dinghy over to explore the partially submerged Curtiss C-46 aircraft sitting in just 10 feet of crystal-clear water. The wreck has become an artificial reef hosting tropical fish and providing one of the most surreal snorkeling experiences imaginable. The island itself now operates a small marina and restaurant, having shed its criminal past to become a legitimate resort destination. Spend your afternoon exploring the extensive sandbars and beaches along the western shore, snorkeling the coral heads scattered around the anchorage, or hiking to the ruins of the drug lord mansion on the island's high point. As evening approaches, enjoy sundowners from your cockpit while reflecting on how this island's transformation from smuggling base to yacht charter destination mirrors the broader story of Bahamas tourism development.
Route Highlights - Cruising southeast through crystal-clear water with views of Exuma Sound and the shallow banks.
- Snorkeling the famous submerged airplane wreck, one of the Bahamas' most photographed underwater sites.
- Exploring extensive sandbars and learning about Norman's Cay's fascinating and notorious history.
Day 3: Norman's Cay to Shroud Cay
Nautical Miles: 12
Travel Time: 2 hours
Today brings your entry into the Exuma Cays Land and Sea Park, the first marine protected area established in the Caribbean and one of the most successful conservation projects in the region. Depart Norman's Cay and set course southeast toward Shroud Cay, the northern gateway to the park. The passage continues through brilliantly clear water, with the distinctive geology of the Exuma chain becoming increasingly apparent as you proceed deeper into the island chain. Shroud Cay itself is uninhabited and largely covered in mangrove forests, but these mangroves create one of the most spectacular dinghy exploration experiences in the entire Bahamas.
Navigate into the western anchorage at Shroud Cay and set your anchor in sand among the typically modest number of yachts enjoying this pristine location. Once secured, prepare your dinghy for exploration of the famous mangrove creeks that wind through the island's interior. The main channel leads from the western anchorage completely through the island to stunning beaches on the Exuma Sound side, a journey that takes about 30 minutes at slow speed through increasingly narrow passages. The mangrove tunnels create cathedral-like spaces, with roots descending into crystal-clear water teeming with juvenile fish, rays, and sea turtles. Emerge on the sound side to discover spectacular beaches and strong currents that create natural water slides and pools perfect for drifting in the current. Spend your afternoon alternating between mangrove exploration and beach time, or snorkeling the pristine reefs along the sound side. As evening returns you to your yacht, enjoy the peace and protection of the marine park where fishing has been prohibited for over 60 years.
Route Highlights - Entering the legendary Exuma Cays Land and Sea Park, the Caribbean's first marine protected area.
- Exploring spectacular mangrove tunnels by dinghy through Shroud Cay's interior passages.
- Discovering natural water slides and pristine beaches on the dramatic Exuma Sound side.
Day 4: Shroud Cay to Warderick Wells
Nautical Miles: 8
Travel Time: 1.5 hours
Depart Shroud Cay and continue southeast to Warderick Wells, the headquarters of the Exuma Cays Land and Sea Park and one of the most special anchorages in all the Bahamas. The short passage allows for a relaxed morning departure while arriving with plenty of time to explore this remarkable location. As you approach Warderick Wells, the park headquarters building becomes visible on the hilltop, along with the famous whale skeleton mounted prominently on the beach. The anchorage offers several mooring balls on both the north and south sides of the island, with the north field typically providing better protection from prevailing winds.
Take one of the available moorings and check in with the park headquarters, paying the modest daily fee that supports this essential conservation work. Once settled, you have numerous options for exploration. Hike to the Boo Boo Hill summit where cruisers have left driftwood signs from their boats for decades, creating a quirky memorial to thousands of voyages. Walk the nature trails that wind through the island, learning about Bahamian ecology from interpretive signs. Snorkel the pristine reefs along the mooring field where decades of protection have created exceptionally healthy coral and bold fish populations. Visit the park headquarters to learn about conservation efforts and see interesting displays on local marine life. The beaches here rank among the finest in the Exumas, with powder-white sand and water so clear it seems artificial. As evening settles over the anchorage, enjoy dinner aboard while watching the sun set over the banks and reflecting on the privilege of experiencing this protected wilderness.
Route Highlights - Arriving at Warderick Wells, the headquarters and crown jewel of the Exuma Cays Land and Sea Park.
- Hiking to famous Boo Boo Hill and seeing the driftwood signs left by cruisers over decades.
- Snorkeling pristine reefs with exceptionally healthy coral and fearless fish populations.
Day 5: Warderick Wells to Staniel Cay & Big Major Cay
Nautical Miles: 12
Travel Time: 2 hours
Depart Warderick Wells and exit the southern boundary of the Land and Sea Park, heading toward Staniel Cay and the surrounding attractions that have made this area world-famous. The passage takes you past spectacular scenery, with options to stop at Thunderball Grotto if conditions and timing are favorable. This underwater cave system was featured in James Bond films and offers spectacular snorkeling through caverns illuminated by shafts of sunlight penetrating from holes in the limestone ceiling. The grotto can only be entered at certain tide stages and in calm conditions, requiring careful timing and attention to weather.
Continue to Big Major Cay, home of the world-famous swimming pigs that have become the Exumas' most iconic attraction. Anchor off the beach where the pigs live and dinghy ashore to meet these remarkable animals that swim out to greet visiting boats. The origin story of the swimming pigs remains somewhat mysterious, but their presence has transformed this remote beach into one of the most visited locations in the Bahamas. After your pig encounter, move to nearby Staniel Cay, a small settlement with a marina, yacht club, basic provisions, and excellent restaurants. The town serves as the social hub of the central Exumas, with cruisers gathering to exchange information and enjoy the friendly local atmosphere. Spend your afternoon exploring Staniel Cay, visiting Thunderball Grotto if you missed it earlier, or simply relaxing while processing the surreal experience of swimming with pigs on a remote Bahamian beach.
Route Highlights - Exploring Thunderball Grotto, the spectacular underwater cave system featured in James Bond films.
- Swimming with the world-famous pigs of Big Major Cay, the Exumas' most iconic wildlife encounter.
- Visiting Staniel Cay's friendly community and marina, the social hub of the central Exumas.
Day 6: Staniel Cay to Compass Cay
Nautical Miles: 8
Travel Time: 1.5 hours
Depart Staniel Cay and set course south toward Compass Cay, home to another famous Exumas wildlife encounter. The short passage allows for a leisurely morning departure, perhaps including a final snorkel at Thunderball Grotto or exploration of nearby beaches and sandbars. As you approach Compass Cay, you will notice the well-protected marina basin on the western side of the island, along with the distinctive rock formations that characterize this section of the Exumas. The island operates as a private marina and resort, welcoming visiting yachts with moorings, fuel, water, and a small restaurant.
Navigate into Compass Cay marina and take one of the available slips or moorings, then prepare for the island's signature attraction: swimming with nurse sharks. A resident population of these gentle sharks congregates around the marina dock, where guests can enter the water and interact with these remarkable creatures. Despite their somewhat intimidating appearance, nurse sharks are docile and pose no threat to swimmers who treat them with respect. The experience of having several six-foot sharks swimming around and under you creates unforgettable memories. Beyond the shark encounter, Compass Cay offers beautiful beaches, interesting rock formations with natural archways, and excellent snorkeling along the extensive sandbars that surround the island. Spend your afternoon exploring these features or simply relaxing at the marina. As your penultimate day draws to a close, enjoy dinner at the island restaurant while reflecting on an extraordinary week of Exumas wildlife encounters, from pigs to sharks to countless tropical fish on pristine reefs.
Route Highlights - Cruising south through spectacular scenery toward Compass Cay's protected marina.
- Swimming with friendly nurse sharks at the marina dock, another iconic Exumas experience.
- Exploring natural rock arches, extensive sandbars, and beautiful beaches surrounding the island.
Day 7: Compass Cay to Rose Island to Nassau
Nautical Miles: 70+
Travel Time: 10 hours
Your final day brings the longest passage of the week as you depart the central Exumas and make the run back northwest toward Nassau. Depart Compass Cay early to allow plenty of time for the crossing, which can be broken with a stop at Rose Island just east of New Providence if you want to reduce the final leg into Nassau. The passage retraces part of your outbound route but from the opposite direction, providing different perspectives on the cays and channels you navigated earlier in the week. The long run gives you time to reflect on an exceptional week exploring one of the world's finest cruising grounds, from pristine marine parks to world-famous wildlife encounters.
If stopping at Rose Island, anchor off the beautiful beaches on the western side for a final swim and beach walk before continuing to Nassau. The island offers a peaceful transition between the remote Exumas and the busy capital, with excellent beaches and good snorkeling. From Rose Island, the final leg into Nassau takes just over an hour, bringing you back to the marinas and harbor where your adventure began. Navigate carefully through the busy harbor traffic and secure your yacht at the check-in location. Spend your final evening enjoying Nassau's restaurants and nightlife, or simply relaxing aboard while reflecting on approximately 160 nautical miles of extraordinary cruising. You have experienced the essential Exumas, from swimming pigs to nurse sharks, from pristine marine parks to spectacular sandbars, from mangrove tunnels to James Bond grottos. The memories of this week will define your understanding of Bahamas cruising and likely bring you back for future exploration of this remarkable island chain.
Route Highlights - Making the long return passage northwest toward Nassau with optional Rose Island stop.
- Enjoying a final swim and beach time at beautiful Rose Island before entering busy Nassau harbor.
- Completing your 160-nautical-mile Exumas classic circuit with unforgettable wildlife and reef encounters.