One Way
The Exumas One-Way Escape: Staniel Cay to Nassau Through the Marine Park
The Northern Exumas Yacht Charter Itinerary
The Exumas One-Way Escape offers an ideal solution for charterers who want to experience the highlights of this legendary cruising ground without the long initial passages from Nassau or the need to retrace routes at the end of the week. Starting from Staniel Cay in the heart of the central Exumas allows you to immediately dive into the iconic attractions like the swimming pigs and Thunderball Grotto, then work your way north through the pristine Exuma Cays Land and Sea Park toward Nassau. This northbound route ensures continuous discovery of new anchorages and experiences, with each day bringing different scenery and activities rather than revisiting locations from earlier in the week.
The one-way format provides several practical advantages beyond the obvious efficiency. Daily passages average just 10 to 15 nautical miles, creating a relaxed pace that leaves plenty of time for exploration, snorkeling, and simply enjoying the extraordinary water clarity and scenery that define the Exumas. The route takes you through the complete spectrum of Exuma environments, from the busy marina atmosphere of Staniel Cay to the complete wilderness of Shroud Cay's mangrove channels, from the protected marine park headquarters at Warderick Wells to the fascinating history of Norman's Cay. The progressively decreasing remoteness as you approach Nassau allows you to gradually transition back to civilization rather than making an abrupt jump from wilderness to busy harbor.
Navigation throughout remains straightforward in good light conditions, with the crystal-clear water allowing you to easily identify coral heads and sand patches far below your keel. The protected waters inside the Exuma chain provide comfortable passages even when Exuma Sound to the east shows whitecaps and larger seas. By the time you reach Nassau after approximately 75 nautical miles of cruising, you will have experienced the essential Exumas: famous wildlife encounters, pristine protected reefs, spectacular mangrove systems, fascinating history, and mile after mile of the most brilliantly colored water found anywhere on Earth. The one-way format ensures you spend your time discovering rather than repeating, making every passage and anchorage a new experience.
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Day 1: Staniel Cay to Big Major Cay
Nautical Miles: 3
Travel Time: 30 minutes
Your Exumas adventure begins at Staniel Cay, a small settlement that serves as the social and logistical hub of the central Exumas. After checking in at the yacht club or marina and completing any last-minute provisioning, spend your morning exploring the immediate area. Thunderball Grotto sits just offshore from Staniel Cay, a spectacular underwater cave system featured in James Bond films where shafts of sunlight penetrate through holes in the limestone ceiling to illuminate schools of tropical fish. The grotto can only be entered at certain tide stages, so timing your visit requires attention to local conditions and tidal information.
After exploring Thunderball Grotto, make the very short passage north to Big Major Cay, home of the world-famous swimming pigs that have become the Exumas' signature attraction. Anchor off the beach where these remarkable animals live and dinghy ashore to meet the pigs that swim out to greet visiting boats. The origin of the swimming pigs remains somewhat mysterious, with various stories about sailors leaving them years ago or resort owners introducing them as a tourist attraction, but regardless of their history, the experience of swimming with pigs on a remote Bahamian beach creates unforgettable memories. After your pig encounter, settle into your anchorage for the evening, perhaps returning to Staniel Cay for dinner at the yacht club or preparing a meal aboard while enjoying the peaceful surroundings. This easy first day allows you to experience two of the Exumas' most famous attractions while easing into cruising life without any pressure or long passages.
Route Highlights
- Exploring Thunderball Grotto's spectacular underwater caves with sunlight shafts illuminating tropical fish.
- Swimming with the world-famous pigs of Big Major Cay, the Exumas' most iconic attraction.
- Settling into island life with an easy first day covering both legendary Staniel Cay area highlights.
Wild, Swimming Pig on Big Majors Cay in the Bahamas
Day 2: Big Major Cay to Compass Cay
Nautical Miles: 8
Travel Time: 1.5 hours
Depart Big Major Cay and set course north toward Compass Cay, continuing your progression through the central Exumas. The short passage allows for a leisurely morning departure, perhaps including a final snorkel at Thunderball Grotto or exploration of nearby sandbars if you missed them yesterday. The route follows the protected waters inside the Exuma chain, with crystal-clear water allowing easy navigation and constant views of the sandy bottom, coral heads, and occasional rays gliding below. As you approach Compass Cay, the well-protected marina basin becomes visible on the western side, along with the distinctive rock formations that characterize this beautiful island.
Navigate into Compass Cay marina and take one of the available slips or moorings, then prepare for the island's signature attraction: swimming with nurse sharks. A resident population of these gentle sharks congregates around the marina dock, where guests can enter the water and interact with these remarkable creatures at close range. Despite their somewhat intimidating appearance and six-foot length, nurse sharks are docile and pose no threat to respectful swimmers. The surreal experience of having several large sharks swimming around and under you creates memories that rival even the swimming pigs. Beyond the shark encounter, Compass Cay offers extensive sandbars perfect for walking and exploring, natural rock arches that frame spectacular views, and excellent snorkeling along the reefs surrounding the anchorage. Spend your afternoon exploring these features, relaxing at the marina facilities, or simply soaking up the extraordinary beauty of this pristine location. As evening approaches, enjoy dinner at the island restaurant while reflecting on two days of iconic Exumas wildlife encounters.
Route Highlights
- Cruising north through brilliantly clear water toward Compass Cay's protected marina.
- Swimming with friendly nurse sharks at the marina dock, another unforgettable Exumas experience.
- Exploring natural rock arches, extensive sandbars, and pristine snorkeling sites around the island.
Famous Staniel Cay plane wreck near the Compass Cay island, Exumas, Bahamas
Day 3: Compass Cay to Warderick Wells
Nautical Miles: 12
Travel Time: 2 hours
Depart Compass Cay and set course north toward Warderick Wells, entering the southern boundary of the Exuma Cays Land and Sea Park. This transition marks an important shift in your journey, from areas where fishing and development are permitted into the protected marine park where all extractive activities have been prohibited since 1958. The passage continues through spectacular scenery, with the distinctive low profile of the Exuma cays stretching away in both directions and the deep blue of Exuma Sound visible to the east. As you approach Warderick Wells, the park headquarters building becomes visible on the hilltop, along with the famous whale skeleton prominently displayed on the beach.
Navigate into the anchorage and take one of the available mooring balls on either the north or south field, with the north field typically providing better protection from prevailing winds. Check in with the park headquarters and pay the modest daily fee that supports essential conservation work. Once settled, you have numerous excellent options for exploration. Hike to Boo Boo Hill where generations of cruisers have left driftwood signs from their boats, creating a quirky monument to thousands of passages. Walk the nature trails with interpretive signs explaining Bahamian ecology and geology. Snorkel the pristine reefs along the mooring field where decades of protection have created exceptionally healthy coral and fearless fish populations. Visit the headquarters to learn about conservation efforts and see displays on local marine life. The beaches here rank among the finest in the Exumas, with powder-white sand and impossibly clear water. Spend your afternoon immersed in this protected wilderness, understanding why the Exuma Cays Land and Sea Park is considered one of the Caribbean's most successful marine conservation projects.
Route Highlights
- Entering the Exuma Cays Land and Sea Park and arriving at headquarters island Warderick Wells.
- Hiking to famous Boo Boo Hill and seeing driftwood boat signs left by cruisers over decades.
- Snorkeling pristine reefs with exceptionally healthy coral and bold fish populations.
Warderick Wells, Bahamas
Day 4: Warderick Wells to Shroud Cay
Nautical Miles: 8
Travel Time: 1.5 hours
Depart Warderick Wells after a final morning hike or snorkel and continue north to Shroud Cay, remaining within the protected boundaries of the Land and Sea Park. The short passage allows for a relaxed departure while arriving with plenty of afternoon time to explore one of the most spectacular natural features in the entire Bahamas. Shroud Cay is uninhabited and largely covered in mangrove forests, but these mangroves create a network of channels and tunnels that provide one of the most memorable dinghy exploration experiences imaginable. The western anchorage typically hosts a modest number of yachts, all drawn by the island's remarkable geography and the opportunity to explore its interior passages.
Anchor in the western bay with good holding in sand, then prepare your dinghy for exploration. The main channel leads from the anchorage completely through the island to stunning beaches on the Exuma Sound side, a journey of about 30 minutes at slow speed through increasingly narrow passages. The mangrove tunnels create cathedral-like spaces with roots descending into crystal-clear water teeming with juvenile fish, rays, and sea turtles using the protected channels as nursery areas. Emerge on the sound side to discover spectacular beaches with strong currents creating natural water slides and pools where you can drift in the flow. Spend your afternoon alternating between mangrove exploration and beach time on the sound side, or snorkeling the pristine reefs along the eastern shore. The combination of protected mangrove channels and wild ocean beaches creates extraordinary diversity within this single small island. As evening returns you to your anchorage, enjoy dinner aboard while reflecting on the remarkable natural architecture of these islands and the crystal-clear water that allows you to observe every detail of the marine environment.
Route Highlights
- Cruising to Shroud Cay and preparing for spectacular mangrove channel exploration.
- Navigating cathedral-like mangrove tunnels by dinghy through the island's interior passages.
- Discovering natural water slides and pristine beaches on the dramatic Exuma Sound side.
Shroud Cay, Bahamas Aerial View
Day 5: Shroud Cay to Norman's Cay
Nautical Miles: 12
Travel Time: 2 hours
Depart Shroud Cay and exit the northern boundary of the Exuma Cays Land and Sea Park, heading toward Norman's Cay and its fascinating history. The passage continues through spectacularly clear water, with navigation remaining straightforward in good light as you can easily spot and avoid the scattered coral heads. As you approach Norman's Cay, you can identify the partially submerged airplane wreck from a distance, its distinctive shape sitting in shallow water just offshore. This Curtiss C-46 has become one of the most photographed sites in the Bahamas, a permanent reminder of the island's notorious years as a drug smuggling hub in the 1980s.
Navigate into the anchorage area near the plane wreck and set your anchor in sand with good holding and protection. Once settled, dinghy over to explore the partially submerged aircraft sitting in just 10 feet of crystal-clear water. The wreck has functioned as an artificial reef for decades, attracting tropical fish and creating a surreal snorkeling experience as you swim through the fuselage and around the wings. The island itself now operates a small marina and restaurant, having successfully shed its criminal past to become a legitimate resort destination. Spend your afternoon exploring the extensive sandbars and beaches along the western shore, snorkeling the coral heads scattered around the anchorage, or hiking to the ruins on the island's high point. The transformation from notorious smuggling base to peaceful yacht charter destination tells an interesting story about Bahamas tourism development and the gradual legitimization of previously lawless territories. As evening settles over the anchorage, enjoy sundowners while contemplating the layers of history that accumulate in these seemingly timeless tropical islands.
Route Highlights
- Exiting the Land and Sea Park and cruising to Norman's Cay with its fascinating history.
- Snorkeling the famous submerged airplane wreck, now functioning as an artificial reef.
- Exploring extensive sandbars and learning about the island's transformation from smuggling base to resort.
The Norman's Cay plane wreck
Day 6: Norman's Cay to Highbourne Cay
Nautical Miles: 15
Travel Time: 2.5 hours
Depart Norman's Cay and continue north toward Highbourne Cay, one of the northern gateway islands to the Exumas. The passage takes you through increasingly familiar territory as you approach the Nassau end of the chain, though the water remains brilliantly clear and the scenery continues to impress. Highbourne Cay operates as a private island resort with an excellent marina that welcomes visiting yachts, providing fuel, water, provisions, and resort facilities. The island serves an important logistical role for yachts transitioning between Nassau and the more remote southern Exumas, making it a natural penultimate stop on your northbound journey.
Navigate into Highbourne Cay marina and take one of the available slips or moorings, appreciating the protected facilities after several nights on anchor or park moorings. The marina provides hot showers, laundry, a restaurant, and a small store stocked with basic provisions and ice cream. Spend your afternoon exploring the island's beaches where southern sting rays often glide through the shallows, snorkeling the reefs along the marina area, or walking the nature trails that crisscross the island. The resort atmosphere provides a gentle transition between the remote wilderness of the southern cays and the busy harbor environment of Nassau that awaits tomorrow. Enjoy dinner at the marina restaurant where you can exchange stories with other cruisers about your respective Exumas experiences, comparing notes on anchorages, wildlife encounters, and the extraordinary water clarity that defines this remarkable cruising ground. As your penultimate evening draws to a close, reflect on a week of continuous discovery through one of the world's finest island chains.
Route Highlights
- Cruising north to Highbourne Cay, one of the northern gateway islands to the Exumas.
- Enjoying marina facilities, hot showers and resort amenities after nights on anchor.
- Swimming with sting rays off beautiful beaches and exchanging stories with fellow cruisers.
Highbourne Cay on the map
Day 7: Highbourne Cay to Rose Island to Nassau
Nautical Miles: 35+
Travel Time: 5 hours
Your final cruising day brings the passage from Highbourne Cay back to Nassau, completing your one-way journey through the northern Exumas. Depart at a reasonable hour to allow plenty of time for the crossing, which can be broken with a stop at Rose Island just east of New Providence if you want a final beach and snorkel before entering the busy capital harbor. The passage takes you northwest across the shallow banks, requiring careful navigation through the northern cays and attention to the changing water colors that indicate depth transitions. As you approach Rose Island, the tall buildings and cruise ships of Nassau become visible on the western horizon, signaling your return to civilization after a week exploring some of the most pristine waters in the Caribbean.
If stopping at Rose Island, anchor off the beautiful western beaches for a final swim and beach walk, enjoying the contrast between this relatively undeveloped island and the urban environment of Nassau visible just across the water. The snorkeling along Rose Island's reefs provides one last opportunity to observe the tropical fish and clear water that have defined your week. From Rose Island, the final leg into Nassau takes just over an hour, bringing you into the busy harbor where your one-way journey concludes. Navigate carefully through harbor traffic and secure your yacht at the designated marina. Complete checkout procedures and spend your final evening enjoying Nassau's restaurants and entertainment, or simply relaxing aboard while reflecting on approximately 75 nautical miles of extraordinary cruising. Your one-way escape has allowed you to experience the essential Exumas without retracing routes, ensuring that every passage brought new discoveries and every anchorage revealed different aspects of this legendary island chain. The memories of swimming pigs, nurse sharks, mangrove cathedrals, and impossibly clear turquoise water will define your understanding of Bahamas cruising and almost certainly draw you back for future exploration.
Route Highlights
- Making the final passage northwest toward Nassau with optional Rose Island stop.
- Enjoying a last swim and snorkel at beautiful Rose Island before entering busy Nassau harbor.
- Completing your 75-nautical-mile one-way journey through the pristine northern Exumas.
The drone panoramic view of Rose island, Bahamas
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